Is there a secret...

[Tercel_jon]

to removing the axle nut? Ive tried everything. Broke a breaker bar trying to turn it, and also heated up the nut but that didnt work. Thinking about driving it up to the shop and letting them take care of it.

[keith]

Bigger breaker bar. Use a socket made for axle nuts, a regular duty socket can break

[xirdneh]

i took a piece of 3/16" thick metal about 6 " square and drilled the lug bolt pattern in it
then welded an arm to it that sticks out about 12" (had to be stout, i used 3/16 x 3 steel flat bar)
i bolt the unit to the hub and put blocks between the arm and the ground
then i can stand on the 1/2 breaker bar

but usually a rattle wrench (electric or air ) is the easiest

[teranfirbt]

I ended up having to borrow a friend's 600 lb-ft impact gun to get mine off, they're definitely on there.

[Tercel_jon]

Thanks guys, I figured they were just really tight on there. 600ft-lb impact gun? Damn! Thats a heck of an impact gun.

Also just to clarify, a really bad wheel bearing can make the wheel wobble right? I cut across the median when It snowed...didnt want to drive the extra 1/2 mile to the turn around...and ever since the snow melted, I dont hear the passenger front wheel bearing making noise like it use to, and also that wheel wobbles really bad, or at least it feels like it.

[Petros]

That could be a bad wheel bearing, but it could also be a bad ball joint or tie rod end. easy to check.

I have always gotten my axle nuts off by soaking it in penetrating oil over night (ATF oil works best), and than using the right size socket, breaker bar and with a "cheater" extension on it. If that does not work you can remove the front strut with the axle in it and drive it to a shop and have a mechanic spin off the nut with an impact wrench. Usually they will not charge much, if at all, to just remove the nut.

To remove the strut: You have to pop the inner spline out of the side of the tranny with a large pry bar (careful not to damage the oil seal when removing the spine from the diff housing), remove the two 12mm bolts holding the ball joint on, remove the caliper and hang it somewhere with wire so it is not hanging from the flex hose (you do not have to remove the hose so you do not have to bleed the brakes), remove the steering tie rod end and than unbolt the 3 bolts on the top of the strut tower, the strut will fall out with the axle attached. It should only take about 30-40 min if nothing is stuck too bad.

make sure you clean the spin off before you put it back in the trans, and if you do this correctly it will not affect the front end alignment either.

Good luck.

[Tercel_jon]

Wait...why would I be removing the strut? On my old 1987 the struts were literally fubar cause I jumped it over a little dirt hill one two many times, if you jacked up the car, the strut would fall down as soon as the the tire got off the ground. Never had any issues with that car except for that.

I got the axle nut off, borrowed a friends compressor. Apparently mine is having issues. hmmmmm lets see, bad ball joint? That sounds lovely. I hope its not that. I know for a fact that I do need a wheel bearing though so Im gonna finish that and if it doesnt go away, Ill take a look at the ball joints and the Tie rod end. Tie rod end sounds relatively easy to replace. I have spares on my old car. unless of course, its like the wheel bearing where you destroy it getting it out.

[Snax]

Pretty sure Petros meant 'half-shaft/axle' instead of the strut.

Anyway, I have had to literally bounce on the end of a 3' breaker bar to get axle nuts loose. Being that I weigh 260 lbs, that's over 750 lb-ft of torque. Sears replaced a 1/2" breaker bar over that one.

[Tercel_jon]

wow...wish we had a sears around here.

Well I got the thing off the car and started taking it apart. Well, as I was pulling it apart, the dust cover fell to pieces. Where can I get a new dust cover? I just went through hell pulling the hub off my 87 tercel thats down in the woods...pulled the dust cover off and compared it to the remains of my old one and well....they dont fit. Any possibility of buying a new one from somewhere? or am i screwed and just have to go get a new knuckle assembly?

[Snax]

If you are talking about the brake dust cover, you can probably just forget about it. Your brakes will be more susceptible to road debris splashes, but I've never had a problem with removed covers on other cars that I've owned. (And FWIW, it is not necessary to remove them to replace the bearings.)

[Petros]

No I meant the strut. IF you can not remove the axle nut and do not have access to a compressor and impact wrench, you remove the whole strut and hub assembly with the axle still in it. If you remove the hub (or knuckle) from the lower end of the strut you mess up the alignment, is it easier to just leave the strut assy attached to the knuckle and pull it out together. When you put it all back together the alignment should be preserved.

I have done it that way once when the I failed 2 breaker bars and my 1/2" drive racket wrench (thanks Sears), some idiot in a repair shop likely installed the nut with an impact wrench. I have never had one not come off with the breaker bar with a cheater extension I pulled the whole strut, kncukle and axle off together as a unit, had the local shop use their heavy impact wrench on the nut (it took less than 5 seconds to get it free), and than put it all back together on the car, properly torquing the nut (with anti-seize compound on the threads). It was faster and easier than busting all my tools.

[ARCHINSTL]

Tercel_jon -
FYI - the torque value on the axle nut is 137 ft-lbs (quite a bit - rent a torque wrench); check FA-7 of the FSM for other torque settings for the various fasteners on the front suspension.
Tom M.

[takza]

I've always managed with an overnight or longer penetrant soak...then a breaker bar with a pipe on it....wheel on the ground.

[sh#tbox]

I have never had this problem, You use the big long snap-on 1/2 ratchet mine is about 3 feet long, use the right axle nut socket, and stand on it, you should remove the cotter pin and retainer hat first

Gee if that dont work, you can get a long pipe, leave the wheel & tire on there, might have to use your spare if you have mag wheels, brace the end of the pipe on the ground, start the car and put er in reverse! if it lifts the car off the ground the nut is too tight! you'll have to go get an impact wrench!

I have never done it this way it always comes off when I stand on it. i HAVE however taken the balancer bolt off a V6 toyota with the starter before, it torques at 191ft/lbs that's tight! So be careful, don't let anyone stand near there. Take it easy only give it what it needs to break the bolt loose. Try not to burn your clutch out, try lighly popping it and then pushing it back in real quick. After it breaks loose you can spin it off with your fingers. If your starter switch is disconnected, you could try it in reverse and (quick) bump the starter, might be less violent!

Again BE SAFE somtimes the wrench flies off there! on the balancer bolt one hit of the starter usually does the trick.

[sh#tbox]

oops sorry, reverse would TIGHTEN THE BOLT HUH? ok put it in gear! duh! use common sense! sorry!

That requires a small ammount of thought huh!

anyway you get the idea