3AC Header on eBay

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Tue Dec 11, 2007 2:43 pm

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOYOTA-4 ... ingPayment

Shipping is outrageous.... Maybe a good deal though?

neonsport · Post by **neonsport** » Tue Dec 11, 2007 3:56 pm

I bid on a header from that seller before he decided to make all his money on the shipping. He was listing with a reserve then, and the shipping was much lower. It's a cheap header, and would need to be aluminized or ceramic coated to keep it from rusting through. I'd probably give $80 for it, total.

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Tue Dec 11, 2007 4:06 pm

Does anyone know the company that originally made them? Maybe e-mail them for the plans, if they still had them?

neonsport · Post by **neonsport** » Tue Dec 11, 2007 5:41 pm

That one doesn't look like it's NOS, I figure it's a current production header. Since he's in PR, I'd run a search for manufacturers there.

Post by **Petros** » Tue Dec 11, 2007 7:16 pm

there is no EGR mount or heat riser for the intake manifold. This would not pass inspection where it is required.

I checked a number of suppliers about a year ago and could find no one that ever made a header for a Tercel. The going rate for a plain steel header is about $160-200, so that price is okay, but I can not see how that head pipe will work unless you intend to dump the exhaust out the side. I wonder where it comes from.

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Tue Dec 11, 2007 10:56 pm

You just get a local reputable shop to fab you up one I guess. For me, a header would cost upwards on $750 to get made, mandrel and all. I may go take them a picture of that thing and ask- "How much for that, only a little better?"

shogun · Post by **shogun** » Tue Dec 11, 2007 11:20 pm

going turbo dont need one

Mac · Post by **Mac** » Wed Dec 12, 2007 1:55 am

hm, i like it.

I bypassed my stupid EGR, and i still pass emissions testing. that heat riser just cooks all the vacuum lines and various valves and renders them useless anyways.

Gasoline Fumes · Post by **Gasoline Fumes** » Mon Dec 17, 2007 10:34 pm

Mac wrote:I bypassed my stupid EGR, and i still pass emissions testing. that heat riser just cooks all the vacuum lines and various valves and renders them useless anyways.

In some places (like NY) emissions testing is only a visual inspection of the equipment. What actually comes out of the tailpipe apparently isn't important.

neonsport · Post by **neonsport** » Mon Dec 17, 2007 11:52 pm

Gasoline Fumes wrote:
Mac wrote:I bypassed my stupid EGR, and i still pass emissions testing. that heat riser just cooks all the vacuum lines and various valves and renders them useless anyways.
In some places (like NY) emissions testing is only a visual inspection of the equipment. What actually comes out of the tailpipe apparently isn't important.

And in some places... Arkansas that is, emissions testing is, well... There is no emissions testing, and no safety inspection.

I actually miss the safety inspection. There was this old man here in town who did inspections. If it was too hot, or too cold, or he just didn't feel like walking, he'd ask you to bring him the registration. He'd fill out the sticker, you'd hand him $3, and as he handed the sticker to you, he'd tell you to honk the horn as you drove away.

I miss the old guy and his shop. It was one of the casualties of the F4-F5 tornado that ripped through downtown in 1997, the same year inspections ended. All that was left standing of that shop was the lift, in the up position, with a Chrysler New Yorker sitting on it, covered in bricks and beams. It stayed like that for weeks till they got everything hauled off.

takza · Post by **takza** » Tue Dec 18, 2007 12:26 am

Mac wrote:hm, i like it.

I bypassed my stupid EGR, and i still pass emissions testing. that heat riser just cooks all the vacuum lines and various valves and renders them useless anyways.

I think there is a heat riser valve that throws exhaust at the plate under the carb when cold AND and EGR?

The heat control valve helps with cold running. Should be loose?

Mac · Post by **Mac** » Tue Dec 18, 2007 2:40 am

the heat riser valve failed on my old manifold, i think its main purpose is to help the car warm up faster on cold mornings.

personally i think the high performance manifold would do more good than bad in the long run. my intake was hot as hell when i changed the carb, and i was driving it like grandpa before i put the carb on, and it had been parked for an hour before i swapped carbs. plus its winter time.

Typrus · Post by **Typrus** » Tue Dec 18, 2007 10:58 am

Well, the factory intake and exhaust DO bolt together, and the exh. manifold actually has a hole where it bolts to the underbelly of the intake, which has fins on it that help absorb the heat. And a little thermostatic counterweighted baffle thingy to decrease the effect when hot.

Whats the point? I'd assume it is to keep the fuel vaporized and prevent carb icing.

Mac · Post by **Mac** » Wed Dec 19, 2007 2:09 am

that flex hose from the exhaust shield to the air filter housing is to prevent carb icing.

Post by **Petros** » Wed Dec 19, 2007 5:07 pm

The exhaust heated manifold does two things: 1) when it is cold the extra rich mixture tends to pool gas in the manifold, heating the base of the manifold prevents flooding and improves cold economy, once the engine warms up and the choke opens this is less important. 2) when the fuel vaporizes behind the venturi the air temp drops, and you could get ice forming around the throttle plate and in the manifold from the moisture in the air. The heat by-pass prevent the ice from forming that could foul the engine. Carb ice is a problem with all engines, especially in cold and damp conditions, and at high altitude, ask any pilot.

If you live in an area where it does not get that cold there will be little difference in how it drives. After it is warmed up there likely would be little effect even in the cold.

The warm air duct on the air filter inlet is more of an emission control thing, warm air is less dense and hence has lower combustion pressure and temp (and lower NOx), but it lower efficiency as well. Ice is a problem after the venturi and throttle plate, not before it.

All manufacturers have ways of heating the manifold around the throttle even on the fuel injected cars, usually with the water jacket, in this case it is with exhaust. There is an electrically heated pad under the carb and, presuming it still works, likely would prevent ice from fouling the throttle. It would not help the cold start condition, but that would be the cost of not having the heat riser.

Note that on all racing engines I have seen they NEVER heat the manifold because it reduces max power and you never run a race with a cold engine. Many older cars I have owned never had a heated manifold (the old twin SU carb volvos, MGs etc.). I do not recall it being a problem, but they did not have a manifold that could trap unburnt fuel like the the Terc.