I installed my weber... problem...

[terkill]

It doesn't idle and I'm guessing I messed up on the hoses. I did a volt meter check on the choke and it is getting a very low amount of power too?

I really need help with this, and I was wondering if anyone can point out any thing wrong in the pictures through hoses? I did what it looked like needed to be connected from the old carb.

[ARCHINSTL]

It's kinda hard to tell from the pix (sorry!)...
You installed the regulator next to the cam cover? Why not on the fender à la splatterdog? I realize that space is taken by the EBCV, HAC, and switches A and B, but these could/should be redundant now. I'd hardly think you'd need the HAC in Hartford.
Then just switch the carb's fuel intake to the other side. Keeps possible fuel leaks away from the manifold.

The throttle bellcrank mod looks good - I did have a problem with (high) idle, too, until I realized the cable needed more slack than I originally thought. Remove the cable, turn the idle adjustment screw all the way out, then turn in the recommended 1 1/2 turns. Then see if the bell crank is in the same position as initially. In my case, it was further "closed"/down, which meant I initially had the cable too tight, although it looked OK. Then just give the cable some more slack; it needs more than one would think. As mentioned in another recent Weber thread, I had to redo the "lean-drop method" - a PITA to my clumsy fingers.
Another thought on the bellcrank, although I can't tell from the pix...if you are using one bolt to hold the Aisan to the U-bracket's slot, it's possible the Aisan is moving on the Weber part. I found that I had to use the little "locking bolt" to truly firmly anchor it, per the pix in the last thread below; the single big bolt just permitted slippage.

It appears that the carb's vac port down low on the right side leads to - what? Sorry, cannot tell from the pix. This should be to the dist advance.
Do you have the PCV tube hooked to - what? Not in pix. If not using the OE phenolic plate for it, why not do the mod that splatterdog did with the EGR plate? I think it's necessary for a good idle. I eliminated the EGR and blanked off its port with a plate.

It appears that you have most/many of the EGR and other emissions thingies hooked up - true? Why not just disconnect them? The only carb things I have hooked up are the fuel line, the vac port to the lower dist port, and the choke wire (it is working OK-I did not check it with a voltmeter, but just with a check light to see if it was getting power).
The front upper dist port is hooked to the OE manifold gas filter (but some members do not have it this way).

Recheck these threads:
https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php? ... ber#p32436
https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php? ... ber#p32436
https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php? ... ilit=weber (boy, alehander takes some good pix!)
And, of course, the original Weberiffic thread by splatterdog and the one Typrus set up on the home page.
Tom M.

[terkill]

The asian to the U bracket is not moving, i used a lock washer and ive tryed pulling at it and it seems good.

I would love it if you have any pictures on where the vac port hose is specifically from? or where the dis adavance hose is?

the pcv tube is in the air cleaner plate, with a temporarry holding, not permenant.

[ARCHINSTL]

The vapor tube is supposed to be in that silly Redline plastic elbow (mine broke, as mentioned in the other thread w/pix).
I do not think the PCV tube to the air cleaner will get enough vacuum to operate [despite alehander's (at least initial) mounting of it there]. The Weber does have a blanked off port for the PCV valve next to the existing vac source tube; there is a brass "cap" inserted there. I guess you can use an appropriately-sized copper pipe inserted? No experience there. Maybe "real" parts stores have these little tubes? Or use splatterdog's method at the EGR port.

I will take a coupe of pix, but not until later tonight.

Incidentally, I did also have a prob with the fast idle (the kinda hidden screw behind the choke). I called Redline, but they were of no help, which also pissed me off. So, I found the below-pasted info on the Web in some 22R truck forums. Dunno if you have this problem too, but here it is anyway.
Tom M.

Once you find the screw Strider is talking about and the engine is warm, close the choke plates while you open the throttle. You should hear a click and the choke plates should remain shut because the fast idle cam is engaged. Now adjust the screw (clockwise to increase and counter to decrease) to the fast idle setting which I believe is 2600 rpm's. This is how I did it on my 38mm. Hope this helps.

To set the fast idle make sure that the engine is cold. Press the accelerator pedal to the floor and let go. Start the engine (do not touch the accelerator pedal - once you touch the accelerator after the engine is running the fast idle cam is disengaged). The engine should be revving between 2000 and 2500 Rpm’s. Turn off the engine. To adjust the fast idle speed turn the fast idle screw in (clockwise) to increase engine RPM, to decrease engine RPM turn the fast idle screw out (counterclockwise) Do not touch the accelerator and restart engine to check RPM.

[terkill]

the pics would be awesome. if you could point out which line is the vac advanced/dist you will basically save me 6 hours and 5 holes in my garage wall.

[ARCHINSTL]

I have the pix, taken last nite - but my 'puter keeps telling me "Cannot find camera..."
Workin' on it.
Under the choke there is a tube/port, to which you have hooked up a tube leading to the fender area, to ?; this is the one for the lowest dist port. Next to it is a plugged port (brass cap/plug); this is the one for the PCV tube, if not hooked to the OE phenolic plate.
Tom M.

[terkill]

Can you point out in your pictures which hose coming from the Dist gets plugged into the vac advance and which is that plugged brass port for the PCV tube?

[ARCHINSTL]

Until my 'puter prob gets resolved - look at splatterdog's second pix in https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=2954; the tube just below the red choke wire that snakes off to the left is the one for the lowest port (of the 3) on the dist (this tube is the one you have going to ? towards the fender). Immediately to the left of this tube on the carb is a plugged port; this is the one for the PCV access tube installation. This is also shown in the Redline-supplied instructions for the carb installation, figure 3, page 4.

Also - look on keith's picture way down on https://tercel4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=2256. It shows his bellcrank installation, but also very plainly shows the two ports to which I refer, just below the manual choke brass lever: The vac advance tube has a rubber cap (he's taking his advance off the gas filter), and just to the left is the plugged PCV port.
The area looks different, as he has a 32/36 with a manual choke instead of most of us with our electric chokes.

Off-topic a bit, I note that in alehander's XLNT photos, he has the vac advance tube (apparently) leading to the gas filter; this seems to be a unique installation amongst us - dunno why.
Tom M.

[terkill]

could you edit a picture when you get your camera, or if theirs a picture of here of it, circling the port to put the PCV i cant figure it out.

[ARCHINSTL]

My 'puter is still having "recognition probs;" May have to call Canon...
Anyway, I pulled a pix from keith and splatterdog and the aforementioned Redline sheet.
Tom M.
The vac port has the rubber cap on keith's and rubber hose on splatterdog's; the EGR port is capped by Weber, and is the little brass circular disc next to the two yellow arrow points.
NOTE that keith's (top pix) is a manual choke carb, whence the "brass" bellcrank; most are electric choke-equipped.

[terkill]

I got it in, everythings fine now. Thank you arch, those helped a LOT.

I had big clearance issues cause my front end is misshapen so i have an Eagle Talon-ish hood. Ill post pics perhaps.

[gatemaster]

I found this info on another site for another car but it is 32/36 DGV specific.

It was also pointed out that when a difficult to find vacuum leak is suspected most people overlook the brake booster as a source of the leak. It is what I am suspecting is the case with my car.

The bearings I think would make for a very smooth throttle and precise return to proper idle. I am going to do both shafts soon.

Is the proper gasket sealing the hole that I saw somwhere (weberiffic thread by splatterdog), that causes idle problems?

..........................................................
Our company (Weberjets.com) has come up with 2 innovative items for the Weber DGV and DGAV carbs.
1) Throttle Shaft Repair Kit. This is a bearing kit that fits onto the throttle shaft without any machine work. This gets rid of all the slop and makes tuning a breeze. Price is $20 per kit
The throttle shaft bearing kit stops all excessive movement in the throttle shaft in the body of the carburetor.

As it is that the carburetor body generally wears and not the shaft itself. If you have any movement in the shaft you are getting unregulated air into the carburetor. This kit requires no machine work as there is a gap in the body of the carburetor for where the bearing slides into. The kit comes with instructions and the only real work is to take out the throttle plate and to clean everything up and reassemble.





Here is the bearing installed. However the bearing does slide further into the carburetor.



2) Proper Original Style Top Cover Gasket. Weber has been supplying the incorrect gasket in the carburetors and their repair kits for sometime now. We have the proper ones. Price is $5 each

For the Top Cover gasket, Weber and repair kit manufacturers have been putting the wrong top gasket in the carbs and the kits. This doesn't always create a problem, but on high G situations and high angle situations, fuel can flow from the float bowl to the air corrector jets. Our gasket is the proper one for the DGV series. The other style that is being installed in fact is a 38 DGAS top cover gasket.



Proper Gasket


Improper Gasket

.................................................................................
Here is the companies website
http://www.weberjets.com/

[terkill]

Yea I checked it at the time when we were trying to come up with ideas. Thanks, I was also wondering, does anyone advance there timing after they get a weber? My vacuum advance apparently never worked and I don't really have time to transfer my distributor out of my parts car.

People tell me they don't need the vac advance on a 4cyl but I have to turn the PSI on the shitty regulator I have to 4 1/2 for it to not to buck around and die on hills and it still dies and doesn't get fuel at 75/85 MPH.

Here's a pic. I had some clearance issues too.

PS. The weird wire setup on the useless vacuum lines don't look like that anymore, I had run out of plugs. And the PCV was only disconnected in the pic because just before it I was going to put a smaller fitting to hold it on